 |
November |
Jump to updates:
19 November- Chicha Fuerte Festival
We spent more time in Porviner that we thought we would, we were very happy to have a cold beer again after having a dry boat since we left Cartagena. We then moved on down to Isla Robeson for the Chicha Fuerte festival. We were not sure what this was all really about, we just knew that on 3 and 4 the islanders drink a lot of a homebrew drink called Chicha Fuerte! This is made out of sugarcane and coffee beans, it is mixed together then left to ferment for 7 days, after this it is ready to go! Upon arriving at the island we were bombarded straight away by Kunas selling Molas, fish and fruits. We brought another couple of molas (looks as though you will all be getting molas for gifts by the time we get home!!!) We also had to pay a $5 fee to stay around that group of islands for a month. We had 3 young very cheeky Kuna girls come over to the boat wishing to explore, they asked if they could come on board, so we let them and gave them some drinks. They all wanted there photos taken so we had a bit of a photo shoot with them too, and I managed to rustle up the only bottle of nail varnish that I own to give to them. They were super pleased with this and finally said farewell.
Click here to see the pictures
We headed into Isla Gertie, parking our dingy at Fredrico's house, the guy who told us we would need to pay the fee. He met us and we took a walk around the village with him and stopped at the local tienda for a quick beer, where we bumped into the 3 girls again, who all now had painted nails! We then were introduced to the Saila, this is the main man of the island and we gave our fee to him. There was a big basket ball tournament going on as part of the festival, played in the small sandy square, with the baskets nailed onto palm trees, so we watch that for a while too. Fredrico then asked us if we would like to go and see his yucca finca, visit his girlfriend and have a typical Kuna lunch with him tomorrow. We excepted and the next day went to pick him up to visit the finca. It was only a 10 minute journey in the dingy to the main land but he would usually do this in his cayuko, which would take a fair bit longer. We had a short dingy ride up a small well concealed river then a short walk through the jungle and mud to reach his plot of land. I was surprised by the yucca plants, I have a fairly large yucca plant at home (well my parents now have it which my dad isn't too fond off!! It is taking over the world!) but what we know at home is a completely different species of plant all together. Here it is a tall very thin willowy tree with scant branches. We helped him cut down some and pull up the roots which is where the vegetable grows, then you chop the main stem into a couple of pieces and plant them back in the ground. In 5 months time these will have grown into trees themselves and the vegetables will be ready to harvest again. It was very interesting.
We then headed back to his house and had a lunch of (surprisingly!) yucca in a watery soup and a fresh tuna fish each. The tuna was lovely and the yucca was nice and fresh although I am getting to be a bit sick of the bloody things!! We then went over to the island next door and met his girlfriend and their new baby. Everyone wanted pictures taken of their families but it was funny as most of the smaller children were very nervous and weary about having there picture taken, I think they thought they were being lined up for the firing squad!! They all perked up a little when they got to see themselves on the digital screen of the camera!
The next day we went back to the island for the chicha fuerte festival, this was being held in the main community hut, girls had to enter through one side and the men entered and stayed on the other side, they are not allowed to mix, everyone was handed free cigarettes (one per person) and half gourds of the chicha fuerte was passed around. It wasn't actually a bad flavor, but I think it lived up to its name by being pretty strong, there was a little ceremony that went on in the centre of the room where groups chanted to each other, praised god (there is one god that rules all, was something to do with it!) then they walked around saying cheers to every one then downed a bowl of the chicha! We weren't allowed to take any photos of this which was a shame but a fantastic experience. It was funny as the women looked as though they were drinking and smoking more than the men (gobbing on the floor and occasionally being sick!!).
It is traditional for the women to smoke a pipe, so it was very funny when a German guy from one of the other boats anchored there lit up a pipe! The Germans only stayed for the beginning of the festival then left but we stayed until just before dark. The only annoying thing was the more they drunk, the more they wanted things, we didn't mind buying the Saila a beer, seeing as his the main man and all that but before you know it, they were getting a bit cheeky, there are 3 Sailas for this island and each one, kept coming up and saying, I need 2 more beers! I need another packet of cigarettes! We only took about $10 over to the island and ended up making a fairly quick exit, after giving the Saila our last $2! All in all it only cost us $5 island fee, $5 to Fredrico (to buy food) about $10 in beer and cigarettes for all the Saila's one pair or worn socks and 2 bits of rope for Saila number 3 to hang his hammock up with (without the fear of falling!) So it wasn't too expensive.
From here we moved onto the Coco Bandero's, back to peace and quiet, on the way over Stuart cut off all his hair! He looks just like he did when we first met, I don't think anyone that we have met in our time here will recognise him now. We spent about a week in the Eastern Coco's snorkeling, fishing and doing some small jobs on the boat. We have now moved down to the Western Coco's where we have been doing pretty much the same. The snorkeling has been good and we have seen an array of different sea creatures, a 6ft nurse shark has taken a liking to the spear fishers and whenever we go over to a certain reef he shows up, probably hoping to get a free meal (hopefully not us!!) We have also seen Moray Eel's, turtles, Eagle rays and yesterday Stuart had an octopus try and nick the fish he had just speared! We will stay here another day or 2 then move on.